Surfing

Surfing is a water sport in which a person rides a breaking wave while standing, kneeling, or lying on a surfboard. Most surfable waves are created when wind transfers energy to the ocean surface. Far from shore, groups of waves can travel as swell; as they reach shallower water, the seafloor slows the lower part of the wave and changes its shape.

The wave becomes steeper until the crest falls forward and breaks. The exact point where this happens depends on the wave and the shape and depth of the seabed, although a breaking wave is often associated with a depth of roughly 1.3 times its height. Surfers try to catch the wave at the right moment, then use their body position and the board's rails and fins to control direction and speed.

Learning to surf involves more than simply standing on a board. Beginners first practice balance, paddling and getting into a stable stance, often in small waves and with an instructor. A surfboard provides buoyancy, while its length, width and shape affect stability and maneuverability. Surfers also need to understand currents, tides, weather and local rules before entering the water.

Falling is a normal part of learning, but collisions, strong currents, shallow water and changing conditions can be dangerous. A suitable board, a leash, appropriate safety equipment and good knowledge of the spot reduce these risks. Surfing therefore combines physical coordination with an understanding of how waves, wind and the seafloor interact.